Along the banks of the river Po, in a strip of land limited by the five municipalities of Colorno, Mezzani, Sissa, Torrile and Trecasali, is kept an ancient recipe, strongly linked to the tradition of the place. This is Tortél Dóls, a dialect term meaning sweet tortello, whose preparation is still handed down from generation to generation by the local families.
Tortél Dóls is the typical dish of Parma cuisine, whose history is full of charm and curiosity. Although there are no official documents of its origins, popular tradition has it that it was Maria Luigia of Austria, Duchess of Parma and Piacenza, who introduced this delicious and special dish into Parmesan cuisine.
It is said that during the Christmas period the Duchess used to offer the boatmen of Sacca, (a small town in the province of Cuneo lying on the banks of the river Po) a tortello with a sweet heart, called in dialect “tortél dóls”. The recipe for this tortello has thus been handed down over time, from family to family, becoming the first dish of the days of celebration.
It is customary to eat this tasty first course on the evening of Christmas Eve, the last day of the year and on the feast of Saint Anthony, serving it with melted butter and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese or “in rosa” using the double tomato paste.
The filling consists of breadcrumbs, cooked wine and homemade mustard. In some variations you can also find plum jam, added to make the filling a little ‘less sweet. To these ingredients, then, each “rezdóra” (the housewife-governant-cook who in the past administered with wisdom and wisdom the food resources of the house) can also add other personal.
With greater certainty, however, we can admit that its origin is due to the ingenuity of the peasant population, which from some ingredients of the poor cuisine has been able to obtain a noble recipe like this. Mustard was in fact the ancient method used for the preservation of fruit during the winter period and must was instead a by-product of the preparation of wine.
Every second Sunday in October, the Gran Galà del Tortel Dols takes place in Colorno, the gastronomic-cultural event thanks to which it is possible to taste the delicious first course, participate in meetings with experts in the food and wine sector and learn more about the history and local tradition. If you pass through here, stop and taste it!