June 23th is a magical night, the night of the witches, as well as being the night of the “rozäda äd San Svan” (dew of St. John).

Tradition has it that on this night the witches dance under a walnut tree; it seems that in Lunigiana, still today, the witches do their sabbath under the oak of Morian, not far from the Parish Church of Venelia, just beyond Licciana Nardi (you must continue beyond Tizzano, pass the Lagastrello and from there go down, about 1 hour and 20 minutes).

June 23rd corresponds to the summer solstice. The sun reaches its highest point in the sky, summer begins: San Giovanni is the solar festival par excellence, it represents the victory of light over darkness, of good over evil. This night must be spent outdoors, to benefit from the positive influences of dew on health, love, herbs, fields, flowers. And tortelli.

In Parma, tortelli d’erbetta are eaten on the night of San Giovanni; every family has its own recipe, and every family claims that this is the best recipe. Some people make tortelli with a “tail” (with more pasta), others prefer them without a tail. Whether it is San Giovanni or not, in the plain or in the mountains, if you decide to eat the tortelli d’erbetta, they must, strictly, be “foghè in tal buter e sughè in tal formai”. (drowned in butter and dried in grated cheese).

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